Testaccio is the heart and stomach of Rome, a working-class neighborhood that remains refreshingly untouristy while offering some of the city's finest dining. The area's history as Rome's slaughterhouse district gave rise to the 'quinto quarto' (fifth quarter) cuisine – dishes made from offal that have become Roman classics.
The Mercato Testaccio is the neighborhood's culinary epicenter, a covered market where you'll find exceptional produce, street food stalls, and tiny restaurants serving honest Roman cooking. This is where to try trapizzino (pizza pocket sandwiches), supplì, and authentic coda alla vaccinara (oxtail stew).
For sit-down dining, Testaccio's trattorias serve what many consider the definitive versions of carbonara, amatriciana, and gricia. The neighborhood is also home to some of Rome's best pizzerias and gelaterias. Come hungry and embrace the Roman way: order multiple courses and take your time.